Window header beam takes the weight

Sunday, May 15:

With the installation of the header and cripple studs above it, I was able to remove all the temporary supports that were holding up the wall.

A "sandwich" of wood: I built this header beam out of three 2x8s, with a layer of 1/2" plywood sandwiched between each stick of lumber. The total width of the header is 5 1/2" – the thickness of the wall framing. With all the tight grains in such lumber, a manufactured beam like this is much stronger than one solid piece of wood – and one would be hard pressed to even find a 5 1/2" x 7 1/4" beam like this anywhere.

Once I nailed the header together, I had to get it into the opening. I started by propping one end of the heavy beam atop the right "jack stud."  Then I crawled up on the ladder outside and lifted the left end and pounded it sideways into the opening.  (Note:  The two temporary posts and beam continue to hold the ceiling/roof up.)

Below: The header now sits atop the jack studs (a.k.a "trim studs").

I designed the placement of this header to leave 1/4" of clearance below the temporary beam – so that I can pull the beam out when it is no longer needed.

In addition to nailing the header directly into the surrounding framing, I used steel mending plates at each end to help hold everything together.

The "cripples" (above and below): Once I pounded in all these "cripple studs" (actually, short blocks), all of the sheer weight from the roof and ceiling is being transmitted down to the header and to the outside edges of the window frame.  Therefore, I could remove the temporary posts and beam.

The last major structural challenge of this tea room project is now complete!