Dining room reassembled

In the two weeks leading up to Thanksgiving I managed to complete the downstairs part of the Tea Room project. The second photo shows how the house looked at the beginning of the year – with an open, 2-story ceiling above the dining room (behind the bridge).

The dining room is ready for Thanksgiving, although this turkey will be at work.  Oh well, at least Anne and Chris can enjoy it.

This is how it looked before.

I'm thrilled with how seamlessly the new ceiling blends with the existing bridge ceiling.

Prior to shining up the crystal and moving everything back into the room, these were the steps I took since my last blog post:

• I draped plastic sheeting around the dining room to keep dust from the rest of the house.
• Using various tools, I lightly sanded the ceiling and walls.  I bought a "pole sander," which worked well on the walls but was awkward to use on the ceiling.   Therefore, I switched to an electrical orbital sander for the difficult spots.
• I bought a Homax-brand texture sprayer, connected it to an air compressor, and sprayed texture liberally all over the ceiling and the upper reaches of the walls.
• I painted the room with Vista swiss-coffee-flat, switching to a semi-gloss for the baseboards.
• I lightly sanded the shutter and touched up the paint.
• Anne cleaned the saltillo tile floors and re-sealed them with high-gloss finish.

Next step: I hope to finish and texture the Tea Room walls on my Thanksgiving holiday (next Tuesday), then install the electrical outlets and get my final inspection later in the week.  After that, I will start on the baseboards, french doors, door trim, etc.

Closing in on the dining room

I am just about ready to sand, texture, and paint this dining room ceiling.   I've troweled layer upon layer upon layer of drywall compound across the ceiling surface to try to get it to blend with the existing ceiling under the bridge.    I'm pretty happy with the way it's evolving.

Below is a photo taken this morning, followed by a photo that shows the unfinished drywall.

The goal is to make this look like one seamless ceiling.  Below, the unfinished dryall abuts the existing ceiling under the bridge.  Actually, it no longer looks like a bridge, so I guess I'm on the right track.

With the dining room almost finished, I have begun taping and floating the walls inside the new Tea Room.  Below are two photos taken this morning.  It took me about 15 minutes to put the yellow mesh tape over all the joints, and then about 45 minutes to trowel the first layer of joint compound onto the wall.

Finishing the office wall

Since my last post, I have spent some time plastering walls.  Taping, floating and texturing sheetrock does not make for exciting visuals, but it does have the tendency to transform a room if it's done well.

The addition of the Tea Room affected the adjacent office wall and the downstairs dining room.  My goal has been to get those two side-projects done prior to finishing the Tea Room. 

This week, after multiple coatings of drywall compound and some light sanding, I put the final coat of paint on the office wall, which once had an interior opening that overlooked the dining room.  Below, a sequence of photos in reverse order:





The finished office wall, with its first piece of artwork – an oil of a Maltese street scene – 
painted by Anne's uncle, Ted Burke, about a half-century ago.

Below:  A reverse sequence that shows how it looked before.







As I neared completion of the office wall, I was finally inspired to tackle the dining-room ceiling, which is, by far, the hardest finishing job I face.

Below:  Some photos of taping and floating. 

When I cut away the upper part of the plantation shutters 6 months ago, I made no effort to get a clean, finished cut across the wood frame. The shutters ran upward into a vaulted ceiling – I just wanted to get them out of my way so that I could build the new upstairs Tea Room.

But last week, prior to taping and floating around the window, I used my circular saw to make a clean cut across the top of the frame.  I screwed a 1x3 board onto the wall to use as an edge-guide, put a diamond-tipped "Diablo" finishing blade onto the saw, and then dragged the saw horizontally across the top of the frame for a perfectly straight, smooth cut. 

Once the walls are finished, all I need to do around the window is touch up the paint on the shutters and re-hang them.

One of the trickiest parts will be blending the new ceiling (right) into the existing ceiling (left) – the underside of the original bridge.  I will need to trowel heavy amounts of drywall compound across the seam and feather it out widely.  

From years of experience, I have learned that it is much easier to apply repeated coats to achieve a smooth finish rather than trying to do a huge sanding job.

3rd inspection passed

On Tuesday, Sept. 6, the Lake Forest building inspector came out to make sure all the sheetrock was screwed on adequately.  He spent about two minutes at the house, then commented: "It looks like it will hold."  My next inspection will be the final one.  The city just wants to make sure I have installed tamper-proof electrical outlets and a carbon monoxide/smoke detector.

Below are views of the project as it stands. I am now ready to begin taping and floating all of the drywall.

The outside is finished!

I managed to finish a huge part of this project – the outside wall – just prior to Labor Day weekend.

I worked my way down the wall, covering the new stucco with Behr paint.  (Kudos to the paint guy at Foothill Ranch Home Depot – I brought him in an old stucco chip and he skillfully used his computer color analyzer to create a near-perfect match.)

Below are views of the finished wall and the original wall.

The new Tea Room window (upstairs-center), and new stucco from the roof down to the large plate-glass window.

Below:  The same wall at the beginning of this year.

The final coat of stucco

Monday, Aug. 22: I troweled and sponged the color coat of LaHabra stucco onto the wall, feathering it out widely to blend into the existing surface. As some of the thinner parts quickly dried, I could see that although the color is close, a coating of paint will be in order.  A good coating of quality latex paint will also help make it more water-resistant.

The darker areas consist of a thicker application of the color-coat. It all eventually cured to the lighter color seen around the edges, but the surrounding paint is darker.

I will paint the upper areas prior to removing the scaffold, then get the lower parts using ladders.

Sunday, Aug. 28: I painted the upper portion of the wall and removed more of the scaffolding. I was careful to caulk the holes in the rafter-tails where the scaffold and hoist pulley were attached. On Monday, Aug. 29, I painted under the window and then tore the entire scaffold down and tossed it into the garage (below).

Tuesday morning: I removed extraneous nails, screws and staples from the scaffold lumber, then carefully restacked it against the wall (below).   I will use the same wood to build forms for concrete planter boxes in the backyard once my interior project is done. . . .

 

. . . Meanwhile, we can at least get one car into the garage.

Drywalling the dining room ceiling

Sunday, Aug. 21: I'm a little late posting this, as I've been scrambling to finish the stucco on the outside of the house.  I am fortunate to have a big, strong son who's a good sport to come over every once in a while and help me – in exchange for a steak dinner.

We rented a "drywall lifter," a device that holds the extremely heavy sheets of 5/8" drywall against the ceiling while you drive enough screws to hold them in place.   If such a lifter existed 30 years ago when I built my home in Texas I didn't know about it – my brother Paul helped me hold the sheets up with our heads while we nailed them into place.  Needless to say, you have to have a strong neck to do that.

Below, a short video showing Chris hanging drywall.  We completed the job in less than 3 hours.



With a few more patches of drywall around the window, this dining room will be ready for finish work. I plan to put crown molding at the wall tops, therefore the top corners just need to be rough-finished with mesh tape and drywall compound. 

The biggest challenge will be blending the two ceilings together.  The existing ceiling under the bridge has a "knock-down" finish.   I plan to trowel over that and apply drywall compound in as many coats as it takes to get a perfectly smooth, seamless ceiling.  Then I will spray the surface with an "orange-peel" texture. 



Removing some scaffolding

In preparation for the final, color-coat of stucco, I removed the upper part of the scaffolding this morning. With the wood posts out of the way, next weekend I can "feather" the color-coat out to blend in with the existing stucco.



Above the window, and to the sides, I just need to put a very thin coating of LaHabra color stucco. I can manage that with a ladder.  Below the window, however, it will need to be a bit thicker, and I will have to use a screed board to level it out perfectly.

 


Once the stucco is finished – probably next Monday – it will be interesting to see how well the color matches as the masonry cures. If I need to touch it up with paint, I will leave the remaining scaffold to make it easier to reach the high parts of the wall.



Within a few more weeks, this scaffold should be gone and the outside should be finished!

The stuco fill coat

Sunday, Aug. 14:

I spent a few hours on Sunday completing the second step of the outside finish:  the stucco fill coat, also called the "brown coat." That is, I spent several hours on the wall, and then even more time cleaning up the huge mess that I made.

After troweling stucco onto the wall, I used a 1x6 screed board to level it out to approximately the same vertical plane as the existing walls.  When I apply the final, color coat of LaHabra stucco next weekend, I will again screed the board across the wall to make it as perfect as possible.

Because of the dry weather, I need to spray a fine mist of water onto this stucco several times a day – for the next two or three days – to help it hydrate and cure into a strong wall.

The "scratch coat" of stucco

Sunday, Aug. 7: After various experiments with a block-and-tackle pulley system that I purchased on eBay, I satisfied myself that I could safely hoist 75-pound trays of liquid stucco high onto a scaffold and begin to git 'er done.

Problem:  How to get heavy pans of stucco mix onto a shelf that is approximately 18 feet above the ground.

I added the highest level of the scaffold to make it easier to spread stucco above the window opening. I installed a heavy eye-screw into the roof facia that could support the block-and-tackle rig. The idea here is to mix the stucco on the ground and then hoist a pan all the way to the high scaffold and slide it sideways onto the scaffold-board.

I placed an 80-pound bag of dry stucco mix onto the rig to test the strength of everything.  The block-and-tackle cost only about $25 on eBay, but it came with a cheap, braided poly-rope that wasn't long enough (nor strong enough).  The solution was this yellow, 100-foot rope from Home Depot, which I threaded through the pulleys. This gave me a 7:1 hoist ratio – making it feel like I was lifting about 1/7 of the actual weight.

The black plastic tray is sitting on a piece of 3/4" plywood. I quickly discovered that the chains pinched the sides of the plastic, thus making it impossible for me to slide the tray onto the scaffold-board.  So, I came up with the solution below.

Necessity, the mother of invention: To keep the chains from pinching the plastic, I built a sort of "crate" using 8" carriage bolts, nuts, washers, and strips of wood.  With this rigid crate, the plastic tray slides easily in and out – important when it weighs 75 pounds and is dangling 18 feet above the ground.

Above and below: The final preparations involved covering the windows with 6-mil plastic and heavy-duty red stucco tape.

This is the top portion of the lower window, carefully covered with plastic and tape.

A messy, heavy tray of liquid stucco, ready to be hoisted into the air.

I started at the top and worked my way down. Spreading stucco is relatively easy – like frosting a cake, except that it requires more arm strength. Using two trowels, I slathered it on liberally – with no regard for how much fell to the ground. You cannot worry about the waste, you just have to embrace the mess and get the job done.   After smearing it above the upper window, I slid the highest part of the scaffold out of my way and worked my way down the sides.

I mixed the stucco on the ground in the electric mixer, dumped it into the pan, slid the pan onto the crate-rig, then lifted it upward. It was a joyful mess.

Above and below:  I was careful to bond the stucco tightly to the existing wall, feathering it with a wet sponge as it began to cure.

Final step:  Once the stucco began to harden, I scratched grooves into it using a small garden claw-tiller. This is called the "scratch coat" – the grooves create a rough surface for better adhesion of the next coat. I hope to do the fill-coat next Sunday, and the final color-coat on Monday.

If the color-match isn't close enough, I might have to do some painting.  Either way, I hope to have this scaffold torn down within a few weeks so that my homeowners association can give me the final sign-off for the only part of this project  that they care about: the outside.

With wall covering, it's starting to look like a room

Over the past week I have slowly been covering the walls with sheetrock.  I had originally planned to do the outside stucco work before tackling the drywall, but I am waiting for a block-and-tackle I that purchased on eBay to arrive – I need that pulley unit to hoist the heavy buckets of stucco mix onto the high scaffold.

So . . .  itching to keep going on the project, I put on my drywall hat, picked up the same tools that I used 30 years ago in Austin.

Above and below: With the application of drywall over the studs, the new upstairs Tea Room takes shape above the dining room.  A 48" french door will go into the opening.

The red chalk lines on the drywall indicate where the studs are. I used 1 5/8" coarse-thread drywall screws to attach the 1/2" sheetrock.

Above and below: While covering the wall that adjoins the office, I realized how much I enjoy this part of the project. The drywall effects a quick, dramatic transformation into a usable room.

Above and below:  The left closet.

The shiny metal strip at left is called "round corner bead." You nail it over outside corners and plaster over it with drywall compound for a soft, round-corner effect.

Using odd scraps of 5/8" drywall, I patched up the channels in the garage ceiling that I had created to run wiring to the new room. The yellow strips are drywall mesh tape.

The wires ran through this "chase." The Cowboys/Longhorns pennants remained undisturbed through the project.

Applying the "mud."   Once the joints are taped with the yellow nylon mesh, the plastering can begin. It generally takes three coats, using successively wider blades, to effect a smooth finish. I have blades that are 6", 8", and 12" –  the same tools that I used 30 years ago when building my house in Austin.

The key to a smooth wall is to use plenty of drywall compound and feather it out widely with each successive coat –  to blend it with the existing ceiling.  I sometimes dip the blade in water to get a really smooth glaze.  With patience, most sanding can be avoided.